Bodice Autumn/Winter 2015

Androgyny, minimal chic and a self-assuring temperament as always were the fundamental and formative parameters for the Bodice A/W 2015 collection by this year’s Vogue Fashion Fund winner Ruchika Sachdeva. Signature relaxed silhouettes (culottes, shirt dresses-), subdued palettes of brown, cream-white plus indigo blue and ingenuity in fabric took the centre stage pertaining to the same. The extra layer however was the introduction of patterns i.e. polka dots but not your run-of-the-mill polka dots. It was part of the recurring ingenuous approach Ruchika has applied throughout. This time the experimentation was with batik and indigo dyeing. The polka dots were done by hand using wax and then dyed. The use of khadi and handloom was characteristic.

There is plenty to delve into if you look closely but at the surface it all might seem the same. The latter is what forms the opposing argument. There is no doubting the reinvention and intricacy in development but for some who give the clothes a once-over it might not sail. The DNA of the label albeit is strongly defined and constantly evolving with strong and discerning patrons who would inspect and appreciate the extreme detail. How well does the label break viable commercial ground in the long run will ascertain gradually.

Images via vogue.in

Rajesh Pratap Singh Autumn/Winter 2015

It was the opening show slot for Rajesh Pratap Singh for his Autumn/Winter 2015 presentation. And did he put up a show!? The high on drama and gimmick factor was consistent through and through. The erratic transition of the models walking down the runway from a nonchalant signature tread to shuddering screams, the pounding rock and the models with mask laden faces inspecting the drop of the IV bags set next to hospital beds set the theme loud and clear- a shout out to the medical workers and industry. First off, kudos to the designer for making a profound effort that lent a credible effect to the story albeit a diffusion of the international runway culture.  But what justified this so called effort & credibility in the indigenous context was the equally impressive clothes. Wool and leather hand sewn with the surgical ‘suture’ seams, fabrics derived from structured wool weaves, Ikat checks and stripes in merino were the techniques that backed up the whole story. The dripping red- of the otherwise completely monochrome collection- morphed into polka dots and back-detailing on the nursing inspired dress and coat silhouettes. The 50’s manifested in sheaths and pleated skirts, all of it made in fabrics coated with gum. The gimmick that would otherwise not have extended beyond its literal meaning for the discerning eye was fool-proofed by what came about- more so in the second half- in the form of ingenuity superimposed on the clothes.

Images via vogue.in

Christian Dior Fall 2015

As Raf Simmons asserted, the target this season was a gradual move away from heritage and towards ingenuity but of course ingenuity that has to be uniquely Dior. It was custumal and familiarly feminine but also, as he put it, "savage& sexual, urban instead of romantic". There were many a proponents of the familiar; a classic impression of Dior. A very tame dimension as palpable in the full sleeve shirt, a basic shift and the modest car coat silhouette and tweed pant suits, that opened the show. Behind these were those traces of sensual. Traces indeed to begin with; some shreds here on a tunic, some there on a skirt and the colourful motifs all concealed behind the usual. Enter thigh-high vinyl boots borrowed from couture, the raw treatment of fur on the coats, a bodysuit in that vividly colourful print and splendidly glistening surfaces of liquid mesh. That’s where the second dimension surged- the one that of savage sexuality. The colours were abundantly used where they were. The red on a car coat was notable and starkly clean.

That’s how Raf managed to contain and challenge. To let it be Dior yet make it his own, this was Christian Dior with defining streaks of Raf Simmons. 

Images via style.com

Louis Vuitton Fall 2015

Fluent! The clothes and the gesticulation in the final bow by Ghesquire attested to a comfortable solid footing at the house of Vuitton. What started with some fine specimens of peaking customary luxury-think oversized, fur, leather, and animal print on oversized fur, all thriving in a self-assured realisation of their necessity and firm origins- was followed by hands-on offerings that had a tight character of construction (the ribbed knits i.e. the orange jumper with an above the bust cut-out). This gradually flowed into pieces with striking traits such as the metallic renderings that eventually took over and formed the entire standout ensemble as seen on Malaika Firth. The logo t-shirts that were inlaid will make an absolutely perfect case of casual luxe.  A whole load of hit must get-your-hands-on stand-alone pieces in the collection would yield sellable commercial entities aplenty. A restrained but strong showcase with simple beauty in the details.

Images via style.com

Sabyasachi Mukherjee pulled a 70's number: Summer/Resort 2015

This collection was more a revelation because I have not come across him playing with an international fashion era which has taken over almost every creative enthusiast. The 70’s are taking a real high stride at the moment and I know it isn't very individualistic to follow the stream. However, digging deep into the details of Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s collection showed us how well the trend merged with his bengali dame’s fashion sense. Women pulling up in flared pants, belted waists and tiny cholis was just too relaxed-chic for the couturier’s aesthetic. The stripe blouses were reinvented and the drapes were soft and easy making us fall in love all over again. 

Think Zeenat Aman’s nonchalance in Dum Maro Dum and you will land somewhere near his 61st look on the runway; blatantly capturing a very vivid mood. Adding seriousness to his collection were the men in his less than subdued blooming prints and the usual well cut juttis. Cropped blouses with elaborate high waist skirts are here to stay for a very figure flattering reason. The middle parting gelled back straight hair has established itself as a beauty trend and the thin tied scarves around the neck are bringing simplicity right back to the 70’s table.

Here are my favourites from yesterday. 

Image courtesy: Vogue.in